Friday, April 13, 2012

Disney Dream Nightmare


I know there are two camps of Disney folks.  Well, actually, probably more like three.  There are the hard core Disney fans; acolytes who would defend the Disney ethos-- it’s parks, movies, lifestyle, and cultural branding hegemony—‘til their last breath.  There are the revulsionists.  I made up that word but I think it pretty much illustrates the other end of the Disney spectrum.  And then there are the folks in the middle; the folks who think, sure, what the heck.  It’s an experience like any other and I have a kid who’s probably been pecked by the, “Have you been to Disney?” question a fair amount by now, so, why not try it.  I’ll do almost anything once.

And so we went.  I figured that third grade was a safe height for all the rides but still young enough to enjoy the luster of Walt’s gestalt, so I caved back in November.  Back before I could know that it would be the most glorious and temperate winter on record.  The concept of escaping a bitter and slushy Northeast March for Florida’s balmier climes was lost on my son and I felt like a dope for being there when the weather was certain to be better here, but the tickets had been purchased.  All of them, that is, except for the park entrance tickets.  No need to buy them ahead, I’d been counseled, as there were ticket windows as far as the eye could see plus a bank of self-serve vending machines.  Six minutes tops was one magical estimate and I believed it, because I wanted to believe in magic.

We first heard word of the electrical outage at the transportation station—the Ellis Island of Disneyworld—where one must wait in line for a ferry or monorail ride to take you to the actual entrance to the Magic Kingdom.  “Will we be able to buy tickets?” I asked while snaking for thirty minutes.  “Of course,” came the cheerful reply from the Disney Cast Member—as they’re all called, not employee.  But when we finally arrived, the vending machines were all still covered and the battery of ticket windows were dark and vacant.  Cheerful cast members herded us into what would be our longest line of the day, inching up to one of the seven Guest Services windows that did have electricity.  And when I say us, I mean all twenty or thirty thousand of us who had waited to buy tickets at the park.  It wasn’t pretty.

Okay, I thought, this is a real teaching moment for my sullen, pouting son; a chance to reminisce over how fortunate we are.  I mentioned that we had full bellies and a knapsack bulging with sandwiches, snacks and water.  I reminded him of how lucky we were to be here at all and plied him with promises of ice cream and Space Mountain.  But it meant nothing as we wilted in the hot, cloying sun.  Naysayers we couldn’t escape in line spoke shrilly of doomsday scenarios.  I tried to counter with games of I Spy and the Serenity Prayer, but he was despondent; and hot.  I even broke out the travel backgammon set I’d squirreled away for just such an emergency—not expecting to need it on the morning of our first day.  “I just want to go home,” was all he uttered.  And I couldn’t blame him.  Where was Tigger?  Someone send in the clowns!  Why weren’t cast members swooping in to placate us with popsicles?  Or palm fronds for shade.  Why not just open up the floodgates and let us in?  Wasn’t one day’s revenue loss worth a generation of great PR?  How could they not have a contingency for this?  They had one for everything else.

They didn’t because they’re not perfect.  And as my son finally broke down after 90 minutes and no end in sight, I had to admit that I’d failed him as well.  Had I chosen the wrong line?  Why didn’t we try another park?  We could have been on our way to Legoland but had already invested so much time that our journey seemed irreversible at that point.  I couldn’t think on my feet any better that Disney could and so I crumbled as well. 

We finally got in.  As we grinded though the turnstile the angry mob behind us grew fainter in the distance.  We sauntered off into that shadeless wonderland of ersatz hopes and dreams; off to get that ice cream.  Off to stand in more soul-crushing lines amidst a sea of parents who’s only simple aim was to bring their kids some joy; FastPasses simmering elsewhere; dignity back at the hotel.  Off to find our own version of an eight-year-old’s supposed idea of magic.  And we did. 

And then it began to downpour.

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